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How can parquet steps be created from floorboards?
 

Creating a parquet step
Sometimes when laying floorboards or parquet, there can be an intentional ridge on the floor, or a step up to a landing or podium needs to be covered. The question is only how can this be laid neatly without unattractive angle rails? This application example shows how to install the wood so that it appears to be one piece.

    Description

    Creating a step

    How I can create a neat step from floorboards, totally without angle rails, using the right tool.

     

    Material list:

    • Wood glue
    • Mounting adhesive
    • Adhesive tape

    Tools/accessories

    The following tools and accessories are recommended in this application example:

    Alternative tools

    The following tools and accessories are recommended as an alternative:

    Preparation/set-up

    • Creating a 46–47° edge

      To achieve a clean edge, we must undercut the wood slightly. This can be done very easily on an already flat surface, as in this example. Using the plunge-cut saw and the over 45° cut setting.

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      Creating an edge
    • Setting the plunge-cut saw correctly

      First loosen the two rotary knobs and push the machine into the 45° angle. Then pull the green knob and set the angle to at least 46° and fasten both screws one after the other.

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      Setting the plunge-cut saw

    Procedure

    • Carrying out the angled cut

      Then we place the guide rail on straight and place the plunge-cut saw on top, plunge and make a clean angled cut.

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      Carrying out the angled cut
    • Trimming the corners

      As we cannot cut right into the corner, we manage using the OSC 18 to adjust the rest of the area. To do this, we turn the guide rail round 180° with the solid aluminium side as a fence, in order not to ruin the splinter guard. Reduce the speed on the oscillator, use the angle of the existing cut when positioning and cut very carefully in the corner along the guide rail.

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      Trimming the corners
    • Hoovering afterwards

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      Hoovering afterwards
    • Cutting the counterpart

      To create a perfect fit for the counterpart and for the sake of ease of cutting, we first cut an angle also of at least 46° from the riser using the CS50

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      Cutting the counterpart
    • Riser height

      Then we measure the height of the riser

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      Riser height
    • Riser cutting

      Then we set the width of the riser with the stopper on the CS 50 scale and cut this lengthwise and trim it afterwards to the correct width.

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      Riser cutting
    • Precision check

      Possibly re-cut again

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      Precision check
    • Checking again

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      Checking again
    • Attaching adhesive tape

      In order for the adhesive to stick securely and to fix the angle given, adhesive strips are positioned on the riser as support so that it can be attached to the counterpart cleanly when they are removed. See other pictures.

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      Attaching adhesive tape
    • Surface bonding

      Apply mounting adhesive to the surface

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      Surface bonding
    • Gluing the mitre

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      Gluing the mitre
    • Attaching adhesive strips

      We now secure everything with the adhesive tape in order to create a good, clean seam

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      Attaching adhesive strips
    • Adhesive strips along the entire length

      Then leave to dry first

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      Adhesive strips along the entire length
    • Setting the desired radius

      Set the desired router for the radius on the OFK 500, as described in the operating manual. 

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      Setting the desired radius
    • Setting the routing depth

      Set the router to the appropriate depth, as described in the operating manual.

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      Setting the routing depth
    • Guiding the router cleanly over the whole length

      Switch on the router, place it carefully and evenly on the wood, then go slowly into the material and slide along the edge along the bearing guide.

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      Guiding the router cleanly over the whole length
    • End results

      Now you have a very neatly created step.

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      End results
    1. Our illustrated guides and work results are documented working steps that we have performed in practice. They are individual examples and do not guarantee or promise that users will obtain the same results. The results will depend on the user's experience and skill, as well as the material being used. Illustrated guides do not replace any Festool operating manuals and/or safety instructions. Liability for ensuring that the information, instructions and applications are free from content defects and defects of title, in particular with regard to the absence of defects, correctness, freedom from third party intellectual property rights and copyrights, completeness and fitness for purpose, is excluded. Claims for damages made by the user, regardless of their legal basis, are excluded. These liability exclusions are not applicable if the damage was intentional or caused by gross negligence, or in cases of statutory liability.

      We cannot accept liability for damage resulting from defects.